Kachori for breakfast, lassi in a clay cup and a sweet that takes two days to make.
Jaipur's forts get the photographs, but the old city's food is what people talk about on the way home. Everything on this trail lies inside or just outside the pink walls, and you can walk it in a morning.
Start with kachori
By eight the sweet shops are frying pyaaz kachori, a flaky disc stuffed with spiced onion and served with a sour tamarind chutney. One is breakfast. Two is a mistake you will not regret.
Cool down with lassi
The city's lassi is thick, barely sweet and served in a clay cup that you break when you finish. The famous shops sell out by early afternoon, so do not leave it late.
Snack through the bazaar
Between the gates of the old city, look for carts selling mirchi vada, a large green chilli in potato and gram flour batter. It is milder than it sounds. Follow it with a plate of dahi puri if you need something cool.
Sit down for a thali
A proper Rajasthani thali brings dal, baked wheat dumplings called baati, and the sweet crumble known as churma, along with five or six vegetables and endless ghee. The servers will keep filling your plate until you cover it with your hand.
Finish with ghewar
This honeycomb disc soaked in syrup is made over two days and is at its best during the monsoon festivals. Ask for a small piece with a layer of thickened milk on top.
Practical notes
Go with an empty stomach and a bottle of water. Choose stalls that are busy, where the food is cooked in front of you. Most of this trail is vegetarian. Avoid Sunday, when parts of the bazaar are closed, and start early in summer.
If you would rather not find your own way, a guided food walk covers eight tastings in three hours and tells you the history behind each one.
