Kochi, Munnar, Thekkady and a night on the backwaters, in the right order and at the right pace.
Kerala looks small on a map and drives slowly on the ground. Hill roads average thirty kilometres an hour, so the order of your stops matters more than the number. This is the loop we send most first-time visitors on.
Day 1: Kochi
Land before noon and go straight to Fort Kochi. Walk the seafront past the cantilevered fishing nets, visit the old synagogue lane, and book a Kathakali show for the evening. Arrive early to watch the performers paint their faces.
Days 2 and 3: Munnar
The drive takes four hours with stops at two waterfalls. Stay on a tea estate rather than in the town. Spend your full day on a guided plantation walk in the morning and at the national park in the afternoon, where the mountain goats are almost tame. Carry a light jacket even in April.
Day 4: Thekkady
Three hours through cardamom country brings you to the edge of the tiger reserve. Take the afternoon boat on the lake for elephants and bison at the water's edge. In the evening, a spice garden tour and a martial arts show fill the hours before dinner.
Day 5: Alleppey
Drive down to the coast and board your houseboat by noon. Lunch is cooked on board as you drift past paddy fields below the water line. The boat moors at sunset, so bring a book and insect repellent. This is the day everyone remembers.
Day 6: Back to Kochi
Leave the boat after breakfast. It is two hours to the airport, so book a flight after 2 pm.
Good to know
The best months are September to March. Houseboats vary a great deal, so choose one with an upper deck and air conditioning that runs all night, not only after nine. Vegetarians eat very well in Kerala, and so does everyone else: try the appam with stew at least once.
A private cab with one driver for the whole loop is the simplest way to travel, and costs less than booking each leg on its own.
