Altitude, permits, phone networks and how many days you really need for Nubra and Pangong.
Ladakh rewards preparation more than any other trip in India. Leh sits at 3,500 metres, the passes climb above 5,300, and the nearest big hospital is a flight away. None of this is a reason to stay home. It is a reason to plan.
Respect the altitude
If you fly in, do nothing for the first 36 hours. No sightseeing, no stairs if you can help it, plenty of water and no alcohol. A mild headache is normal. A headache with nausea or breathlessness at rest is not, and you should tell your hotel at once. Speak to your doctor about preventive medicine a week before you go.
How many days
Seven is the comfortable minimum. Two days in Leh, two for Nubra valley, two for Pangong lake, and one spare for weather. Trying to do it in five means long drives on the days your body needs rest.
Permits
Indian citizens need an inner line permit for Nubra, Pangong and the lakes beyond. It is issued online in a few minutes, or your tour operator will arrange it. Carry six photocopies along with your ID, because every checkpost keeps one.
Phones and money
Only postpaid SIM cards work in Ladakh, and coverage ends soon after you leave Leh. Download offline maps and tell your family you will be out of reach. Cash machines exist only in Leh town, so withdraw what you need before heading out.
What to pack
Days are warm in the sun and nights are near freezing, even in July. Bring layers, a windproof jacket, sunglasses, sunscreen with a high rating and a lip balm. A refillable bottle saves money and plastic.
When to go
June to September is the season. June still has snow walls on the passes, and September has clear skies and fewer people. The road from Manali is spectacular but tiring, so first-timers are better off flying in and saving the drive for a second visit.
