Three chains, three lengths, one rule. Elena Marlowe on layering gold so it looks considered and stays put.
By Elena Marlowe, founder and head goldsmith.
Layered necklaces look effortless on other people and turn into a knot on you by lunchtime. I hear this at the showroom every week. The good news is that layering follows a few plain rules, and once you know them you can put three chains on in the dark.
Leave two inches between each chain
This is the rule that matters most. Chains of the same length slide over each other and twist together. Chains two inches apart hang in their own space. A 16 inch, an 18 inch and a 20 inch will sit as three clean lines on almost anyone.
If you only own two necklaces, pair the shortest with the longest you have. A wide gap looks deliberate; a narrow one looks like an accident.
Vary the weight, not just the length
Three fine chains read as one blur. Three heavy ones compete. Choose one piece with presence, such as a flat herringbone or an open link, and let the others be quieter: a fine cable chain, a single small pendant.
Heavier chains also behave better. They hang straight and hold the lighter ones in place, which is why I usually put the weightiest chain in the middle.
One piece leads. The others keep it company.
Mix textures before you mix metals
A smooth chain beside a twisted rope beside a line of small stones is more interesting than three of the same link. You can mix yellow gold, white gold and silver as well, and I often do, but texture is the easier place to start.
Put them on in order
Fasten the shortest first and the longest last, and take them off in reverse. Fasten each clasp again before you put a necklace away, and store them flat or hanging, never in a heap. Herringbone in particular should never be coiled tightly.
If they still tangle
A pendant on the longest chain adds just enough weight to keep it at the bottom. And if you would like the whole thing solved for you, our Riviera set is three chains cut to lengths that already get along.
Bring your own necklaces to 212 Atlantic Avenue and we will happily lay them out with you. It takes five minutes and costs nothing.
