One length of cloth, three classic drapes. A step by step guide to the styles most of India grew up with.
A saree is five and a half metres of unstitched cloth, and how you fold it changes everything. Start with a well-fitted petticoat tied firmly at the waist, a blouse and a handful of safety pins.
The Nivi drape
This is the style seen across most of India. Tuck the plain end into the petticoat at your right hip and take one full turn around the body. Make seven to nine pleats, each about five inches wide, and tuck them in at the navel so they face left. Take the remaining cloth around the back, bring the pallu over the left shoulder and pin it.
The Bengali drape
There are no front pleats here. Wrap the saree around the waist twice, making two wide box pleats at the front. Take the pallu over the left shoulder, then pull it under the right arm and throw it back over the right shoulder. Traditionally a key bunch is tied to the corner.
The Gujarati drape
Pleat and tuck exactly as you would for a Nivi. Then take the pallu from the back over the right shoulder so it falls in front, spread it across the chest and tuck the far corner at the left hip. This style shows off a heavy pallu better than any other.
A small tip
Wear your footwear before you start. The hem should just touch the floor with your heels on.
