Two linen shirts can look the same and wear completely differently. The label tells you why.
Weight
Measured in grams per square metre. Under 150 is airy and fine; 180 to 230 is the everyday sweet spot; heavier linen behaves almost like a light jacket.
Weave
A plain weave is crisp; a twill drapes; gauze floats. Sandwashing softens the surface before you ever wear it.
Origin
The best flax grows along the coasts of northern Europe. Shorter journeys from field to mill mean fresher fibre and a smaller footprint.